Sunday, August 18, 2002
Hello from Saint Petersburg!
I am now one week into my trip and have seen Russia’s two biggest cities. In Moscow, I visited many sites, including:
- the Kremlin (the Kremlin is a walled off area in the centre of Moscow; within the 2.5 km walls are found the Senate, where Putin has his office, the Supreme Soviet, and a large and ugly Soviet era concert hall where communist party meetings were held. Unfortunately, these buildings were all strictly off-limits; there were numerous guards around to make sure! What tourists do get to see is the Kremlin Palace, containing an art museum, as well as a number of beautiful Russian Orthodox churches, which are also on the grounds of the Kremlin)
- Lenin’s tomb (Madame Tussaud would be proud!)
- Red Square (site of Lenin’s tomb, St Basil’s Cathedral and where those scary-looking Soviet military parades used to take place; now the very luxurious GUM department store faces out onto Red Square; I took a picture of Lenin’s Tomb from inside the GUM store with a view of both the Chanel cosmetics counter and the tomb in the same frame – that probably summarizes the current situation well – Red Square is now a shopping mall!)
- The Pushkin Museum: Good Selection of impressionist paintings and Egyptian Mummies – sort of the Musée d’Orsay combined with the British Museum!
- The Olympic Stadium (1980 Olympics) and the adjacent hockey rink where the famous 1972 Canada-USSR series took place and where Paul Henderson scored his famous goal. I tried to talk my way into the building where one of the greatest moments in Canadian history occurred, but apparently the 72 series was not as historic for people in Moscow as it is for Canadians. I used all the right words (Paul Henderson, Tretiak, Canada) but nevertheless was told by the maintenance guy I had found (or maybe he’s the Zamboni driver) to buy a ticket for the season opener in September.
- The VVT exhibition area. This used to be like an EPCOT Center for communism and it’s various aspects and «successes.» Since funding was cut off in 1990, the pavilions have been allowed to fall into disrepair and those that are used are used as flea markets or to sell electronic goods (imported from abroad, of course). I, of course, took as many pictures as I could to show this symbol of the failure of communism. However, I finally met my match when a burly and not very polite or friendly (and probably drunk on vodka) rent-a-cop guard stopped me from photographing the flower market that now occupies the pavilion that used to house the exhibits glorifying the Soviet space program.... something about Nyet Camera ... (Fortunately, that has been my only run-in with the «law» thus far).
As usual though when backpacking abroad, the biggest adventures come during what should be the most mundane activities. I went to a ticket agent recommended by my Lonely Planet guidebook to buy a train ticket to St Petersburg. The agency was at no 6 on the street in question. I could only find no. 7, but figured I’d give it a try anyway, plus the building at no 7 had what looked like ticket booths. Once I started into my «Do you speak English?» spiel, I noticed what looked like medical files behind the counter. I was in a hospital!
Fortunately, unlike most Muscovites, the lady behind the counter (who of course didn’t speak anything but Russian) was nice. She took pity on me and brought me upstairs to see the doctor on duty who was from India (he’s married to a Russian). We pushed in line ahead of a bunch of sick people to see the doctor. Along with help from the nurse on duty, he slowly explained to me in English in his heavy Indian accent how to get to the ticket agency (it was basically around the corner) and even drew me a map. I must say that the Russian medical system is excellent, especially if you’re lost!
Anyhow, the adventure was to continue: I found the ticket agency. After I asked the lady there if she spoke English (there was an English sign («Train Tickets») hanging above her head). She immediately started yelling and gesticulating wildly towards the next building (How dare I ask her a question?!!). In the next building I got a similar reaction from one clerk and then finally found someone who gave me two awful choices of tickets times for my train. When I said that the choice she was offering was on the wrong day, she said that’s what we have, so take it. I see the Soviet marketing methods are still in vogue!
I then went directly to the actual train station and bought a ticket (for the right day). The only ticket available was in 3rd class on a train that would arrive at 4 a.m. I kicked myself for not planning ahead, and getting a better ticket. However, the price was right (US$11 for an 8 hour train ride).
The 3rd class experience was actually fine. I had a bench that converted into a bed. The train car was packed, but the surrounding passengers were interesting. There was a smooth talking Russian guy (Hugo Boss salesman) who spoke a few words of English. He was attempting to communicate with a couple of Chinese tourists who spoke even less English. Witnessing their «conversation» was worth the price of my ticket!
Arriving at 4 a.m. in St Petersburg wasn’t great, and finding the hostel door locked wasn’t great either, so I hung out in a 24 hour Internet cafe and read some newspapers on-line. I got a couple of hours sleep once I was able to enter the hostel, and then it was off to discover St. Petersburg!
I’ll describe St Petersburg in my next e-mail. In brief, though, it is a unique place with interesting architecture and friendlier people than Moscow.
Take care.
--Larry
